Sunday, April 1, 2018

The Day of Edzell


Saturday, May 13, Edinburgh

According to online sources (wikitree) I can trace my ancestry back to a David Lindsay who lived at and built up the castle and gardens at Edzell, about two hours north of Edinburgh. I only discovered this connection after we booked this trip. We had to go see it of course.

We hired a private tour so I could enjoy the scenery instead of praying I stayed on the left side of the road. Our driver, Duncan is great and helps make the day extra special. Shortly after leaving Edinburgh we are in the beautiful rolling farmland of lowland Scotland. Our expectations for Edzell castle are limited by the mediocre online pictures. On arrival we see it is so much more. The red sandstone used in the construction is quite striking. The simple tower seen in the online photo is only a small part of the castle and adjacent garden. The garden walls are covered in artistic plaques many related to the earl's beliefs that education was an important part of a successful society - damn liberal of someone living in the 1500's.

As an added bonus, being a Lindsay descendent (Lindsey in the US), I am entrusted by the receptionist at the castle with the key to the family crypt at the nearby graveyard. We go and pay our respects. Six months ago I had no idea of this ancestry - a really special day.

On our way back to Edinburgh we stop at the abbey and church of Dunfermline. Its main claim to fame is being the burial place of Robert the Bruce minus his heart. I will let you look up that story online.

We are accompanied on this trip by our Amsterdam friends Cees and Josephine who came for a long weekend visit. Extra special having them along.


 
The great railway bridge
This railway bridge just north of Edinburgh was once the greatest man made structure in the world. The bridge crosses the Firth of Forth. Still in use and still damned impressive.
 


Beautiful countryside
Plant is rape seed aka canola. The air is filled with the scent.


 
A view of Edzell castle
 
 

 
The castle tower
 
 

 
Inside the castle ruins
 
 

 
A huge cooking fireplace
 
 

 
Mason's mark in stone - a signature of their work
 
 

 
A view of the restored garden - note summer house in background
 
 

 
Part of the garden walls that are covered in plaques
 
 

 
One of the many plaques
 
 

 
Another plaque
 
 

 
View from the summer house
 
 

 
The Lindsay crypt
 

 
Plaque inside crypt - what does it signify?
 
 

 
Celtic cross at graveyard
 

 
Church at  Dunfermline
 
 

 
Grave of Robert the Bruce
 
 

 
Our Amsterdam friends

Castles and friends


Friday, May 12, Edinburgh

Today is fairly relaxed. A leisurely breakfast consists of the UK standards of eggs, bacon (Canadian, not streaky), bangers, grilled tomatoes, sautéed mushrooms and beans. OK, there are other items like fruit and pastries, but also those Scottish favorites blood sausage and haggis. We ignored those last two.

We are then out for a modest walk to Edinburgh castle. The castle is more practical fortification than fancy royal house. However, its commanding view of the city make it a remarkable place.

After our tour, we stop at the castle tea house for ale and scone - pretty sure that combination violates several unwritten laws, but it sure was tasty.

Afternoon siesta seemed appropriate, then we walk to a nearby hotel to meet we our friends Cees and Josephine from Amsterdam. We meet them on a cruise some years ago and have gotten together like this a few times since. We catch up over beers and cider then more at dinner. Good times.

Oh BTW it is also our anniversary today.


 
Approaching Edinburgh castle
 

 
Another view showing the high perch - plus a photo bomber
 

 
There be cannon here
 

 
Fire at Will - whoever Will is
 

 
Some internal glitz
 


Battle ready


 
Who carved my initials into the wall?
 

 
Local brew and scones - yummy

Off to Scotland


Thursday, May 11, Edinburgh

We bid a sad farewell to York this morning and are off to Edinburgh. We navigate the train station with a little more certainty this time. Sure wish the US had a system like this one.

We travel in first class which includes wine and lunch and lots of space - well worth the slight extra cost. The scenery along the way is gorgeous.

Our hotel, the Scotsman is in a historic building that used to house the Scotsman newspaper. It is just off the 'Royal Mile' so we take an easy afternoon stroll. Our main stop is at the St. Giles Cathedral, not the fanciest but with some interesting points. Best part is we get an impromptu organ concert as we wonder about the place.


 
The great train traveler in York station


 
'Fine dining' on the train to Edinburgh
 

 
Beautiful countryside - the yellow stuff is called rape
 

 
More beautiful countryside
 

 
St. Giles cathedral
 

 
A grave monument
 

 
Iconography - not sure what it means
 

 
Look carefully at the carvings on the armrests
 

 
Looking up at the ceilings
 

 
Looking down at the floors
 

 
A previous bishop
 

 
Looking down the Royal Mile in Edinburgh

Walking in York


Wednesday, May 10, York

Part of York's fame is its mostly intact medieval wall. Driving into the old town requires passing through one of the wall gates. There are long sections where you can stroll along the top of the wall and enjoy the views or maybe bring your bow and arrows to ward off invaders. We choose the strolling option. As an added bonus the sun is out and we are able to dismount into a lovely garden with beer and cider service. The English are so accommodating.

The other item of fame is the York Minster. A minster is more than a church but less than a cathedral. This place seems pretty cathedral like to me, but I never got to vote. York Minster is typical of the era - long and high wth ornate burial monuments tucked in here and there. There are also a few whimsical bits left by the stone masons as well.

Our evening includes going to the Grand Opera House for a ballet of Cinderella.


 
Our portal into York
 

 
A stroll atop the wall
 

 
A view of inside the wall
 

 
A view of outside the wall
 

 
A view from the wall into someone's backyard
 

 
Our drink awaits - the Brits know how to live
 

 
St. May's church on right and York Minster on left
 

 
Detail of Minster entrance
 

 
Stained glass windows - two of hundreds
 

 
A tomb
 

 
A burial monument
Expand and read the second and third lines carefully. Note the letter that looks like an f is actually an s in modern English.
 

 
Just another modest burial monument
 

 
Some random tile work
 

 
Some random ceiling decoration
 

 
A whimsy of the stone carvers